Classic Pâte À Choux: Cream Puffs, Éclairs & Paris-brest

Make the Pâte à Choux

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the center. Measure all the ingredients and prepare your parchment-lined sheet pans, using the tracing guides for your chosen pastry below.
2. Combine the water, milk, butter, sugar and salt in a medium saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the butter is completely melted and the mixture reaches a full boil. 
3. Remove from the heat and add the flour all at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until no dry flour remains and a thick dough forms.
4. Return the saucepan to medium-low heat. Cook, stirring constantly for about 3 minutes, until it forms a smooth ball and leaves a thin film on the bottom of the pan.
5. Transfer the dough to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low for 1–2 minutes to release steam and cool to approximately 125–130°F.
6. With the mixer running on medium-low, add the first three eggs one at a time, allowing each to fully incorporate before adding the next. Scrape down the bowl and paddle as needed.
7. Check the consistency before adding the fourth egg. The dough should be smooth, glossy and thick enough to hold its shape when piped. When the paddle is lifted, it should fall slowly in a heavy ribbon, leaving a V-shape hanging from the paddle.
8. If the dough is still too stiff, beat the fourth egg in a small bowl and add it a little at a time, mixing fully and checking the consistency after each addition. If needed, beat the fifth egg and continue adding it 1 teaspoon at a time. Stop once the dough reaches the correct consistency; you may not need all the egg.
9. Fit a piping bag with a round tip with a ½-inch opening for cream puffs, a medium French-star tip (like Ateco 866) for éclairs, or either tip for Paris-Brest. Fill the bag, pressing the dough against the sides to minimize air pockets. Use a bench scraper along the outside of the bag to push the dough toward the tip.

For Cream Puffs

1. For evenly sized cream puffs, trace 1½- to 2-inch circles on parchment paper using a round cutter or small glass, leaving at least 2 inches between the edges of the circles. Turn the parchment marked-side down and place it on a sheet pan.
2. Hold the piping bag vertically with the tip just above the parchment in the center of a circle. Apply steady pressure, allowing the dough to spread outward until it fills the circle and forms a rounded mound. Stop squeezing before lifting the tip.
3. Smooth any pointed tops with a fingertip lightly dampened with water.
4. If using craquelin, center a frozen disc over each mound without pressing down. Each disc should be approximately the same diameter or a little larger than the piped dough.

For Éclairs

Additional Ingredients

• Powdered sugar, for dusting (omit if using craquelin)

Shaping

1. Using a ruler, draw parallel lines 4 to 5 inches long on parchment paper, spacing them approximately 2 inches apart. Turn the parchment marked-side down and place it on a sheet pan.
2. Hold the piping bag at approximately a 45-degree angle with the tip close to the parchment. Pipe along each guide with steady pressure, forming a strip approximately ⅝ to ¾ inch wide. Try to pipe the dough tall rather than broad and flat.
3. Stop squeezing before pulling the tip away. Smooth any pointed ends with a fingertip lightly dampened with water.
4. Just before baking, use a fine-mesh sieve to lightly dust the éclairs with powdered sugar. If using craquelin, omit the powdered sugar and center a frozen strip over each éclair without pressing down.

For Paris-Brest

Additional Ingredients

• 1 egg, beaten, for egg wash
• Sliced almonds, for topping

Shaping

1. Trace 5-inch circles on parchment paper using a bowl, cutter or template, leaving at least 3 inches between the circles. Turn the parchment marked-side down and place it on a sheet pan.
2. Pipe a ring of dough along each circle. Pipe a second ring directly inside the first so the two rings touch.
3. Pipe a third ring on top, centered over the seam between the two bottom rings. Start and finish each ring in a different place so the joins do not stack.
4. Lightly brush with beaten egg, then sprinkle with sliced almonds. If using craquelin, omit the egg wash and center a frozen craquelin ring over the dough without pressing down; sliced almonds are optional.

Baking

Bake one sheet pan at a time, keeping pastries of similar size and shape together. Keep any remaining pans of piped choux in the freezer, uncovered, while they wait. Bake those pans directly from frozen, allowing additional time at 350°F as needed. 

• Bake in the preheated 400°F oven for 15 minutes. Then, without opening the oven, reduce the temperature to 350°F.
• Continue baking until deeply golden, crisp and firm:
  • Cream puffs: approximately 15 to 20 minutes more
  • Éclairs: approximately 20 to 25 minutes more
  • Paris-Brest: approximately 25 to 35 minutes more
• Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely before filling.
• If baking another pan, return the oven to 400°F and allow it to fully preheat before adding the next pan.

Storage

Unfilled shells are best the day they are baked. Store completely cooled shells lightly covered at room temperature for up to 1 day, or freeze airtight for up to 1 month.

Refresh thawed shells at 350°F for 5 to 8 minutes, then cool completely before filling.